Hi all!
Yesterday we learned about the sudsy joys of sulfates. Today I want to introduce you to another group of lovely hair-care ingredients: Silicones. One of the curly-haired gurus that I've recently started looking into had this to day about silicones:
"The purpose of silicone hair products are to coat the hair with a micro-fine layer of conditioners creating sheen, reducing friction for easier combing and to prevent tangles and breakage. Silicones also help other ingredients in conditioners and lotions to spread easily."
To me, that sounded pretty awesome, until I read on:
"Silicones are not water-soluble unless they are modified to be, so they also form a water-sealing barrier to prevent loss of water from hair and help retain dye by making hair more hydrophobic (water-repellent)."
Although many find it beneficial because they prevent the hair from losing water and make styling easier, the water-repellant properties of silicones make it a nightmare for many with chronically dry hair. Additionally, because they are not water-soluble, they are one of the key reasons we need sulfate shampoos: to get rid of silicones buildup on the hair and scalp. So, most likely, if you want to stop using sulfate shampoos, you will probably have to eliminate, or at least minimize your use of silicone containing products.
However, some silicones are water-soluble and are safe to use if you want to avoid sulfate shampoos. Another one of my favorite curly-haired gurus has put together the following information on silicones, both water soluble and not:
"A silicone ingredient with end with -cone, -conol, or -xane. Examples include: dimethicone, dimethiconol, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and trimethicone. None of these are water soluble...
Make sure you don't confuse silicones with preservatives, which frequently end in -one (rather than -cone). Methylchloroisothiazolinone, while a mouthful, is a water soluble preservative...
Another little complexity about silicones is that scientists can modify their structure to make them water soluble. These cones are...friendly, but some people choose to avoid them for the sake of being totally silicone free...If a silicone ingredient (-cone, -conol, or -xane) is prefaced with PEG or PPG, it is water soluble. So PEG-12 Dimethicone is water soluble..."
Wishing you Happy, Healthy Hair!
Shalencia
Information found at:
http://dormroomcurly.blogspot.com/2008/12/style-definitions-table.html
http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/curly-hair-care-methods/no-poo/silicones-no-poo/silicone-hair-products-not-so-bad-after-all